The footwear pattern making and prototyping course is held in Milan and it has a duration of 13 weeks. Most of the class time is dedicated to footwear pattern making, a topic which we believe is indispensable for both designers and technicians.
This 13 weeks shoe course has been the core offering of ARSUTORIA for more than 60 years. Objective of the course is to teach footwear pattern making techniques.
Attention! The January and April 2017 Sessions are sold out. Next available session is August 28th, 2017
The pattern engineer is the professional that translates the ideas of the designer into a product. His main responsibility is the engineering of the patterns for upper and lining. He also needs to have a good knowledge of:
the entire manufacturing process
the development of the shoe last and of all the bottom components such as insoles, soles and heels
the different materials that can be used in production such as leathers, synthetics and fabrics
The pattern making techniques are fundamental to the design process that leads to the creation of a footwear collection. The strength of Italian pattern engineers is one of the key ingredients for Italian reputation in the field of footwear.
The industrial shoe making process is the focus of our course. ARSUTORIA School has a unique sample room equipped with all the machines needed to make shoes in a factory.
The ARSUTORIA diploma is issued at the end of the course to students that have successfully completed the assessment.
Students successfully completing this course have different career options: designer or technician in a company.
Part of our students wish to create a shoe brand or set up a factory.
SHOE COURSE IN BRIEF
13 weeks, 9AM to 5PM, Monday through Friday
There are no prerequisites to attend this course
ARSUTORIA School, Via Ippolito Nievo 33, Milan, Italy
This course is taught in English and Italian
FOOTWEAR LEARNING TECHNIQUES
PATTERN MAKING LESSONS
Most of the class time is dedicated to footwear and leathergoods pattern making, a topic which we believe is indispensable for both designers and technicians. The ARSUTORIA method has been an effort that we have made during the years to set precise rules on how the patterns of the different shoes and bags styles have to be made. These same rules are fundamental to approach footwear and leathergoods design in a more effective way.
During class times, teachers introduce new concepts and theories relative to the activity at hand. These include but are not limited to:
international measurements systems of shoe sizes and width
materials and components: those visible that contribute to the aesthetic of a shoe but also hidden ones that make the difference in the quality of the construction
equipments, processes and constructions to manufacture shoes
A professional stitcher is available to prepare sample uppers and linings. This helps students better understand the reasons why of the pattern making procedures and rules. These lectures also cover topics such as edge finishing and reinforcing, small details that determine the quality of shoes. We also organise hand lasting sessions on a few selected styles to expose participants to the toe, back and side lasting operation as one of the most delicate step of the board lasted construction.
Inside the school we have set up a sample room fully equipped with all the machines needed to make shoes in a factory. Professional workers run this sample room to make students prototypes. ARSUTORIA students have the unique opportunity to assist and help in the sample making process. This gives them an amazing experience of how a design is translated into a product.
VISIT TO FACTORIES / EXTERNAL SPECIALISTS
During the course we organise visits to: footwear manufacturing plants, leather tanneries, last making facilities, heel makers and sole manufacturers. We invite selected specialists from leading italian companies to cover topics such as last enginering and molded soles development.
We also spend a day at a shoe finishing laboratory where students can apply different finishing to their prototypes with the help of specialists from a leading italian company.
The final exam is an opportunity to recap all the subjects covered during the course and to assess the progress in skills and knowledge. It takes the entire week and it includes a fit testing session on students prototypes, a written test, a practical exercise and an interview.
The foot, last, upper, middle and bottomcomponents are analyzed in depth with the help of samples and detailed videos. Each student, with the assistance of our senior instructor will have the opportunity to understand why their favourite shoe “just doesn’t feel that comfortable” and the reason why. It is our goal to stir the curiosity of each student to have the constant desire to want to learn and understand more about the art of shoemaking and continue to work with passion in this industry.
The AGO/Cemented construction is analyzed step-by-step for different shoe categories: man elegant and casual, woman, flat to high heels, leather to rubber soles
Notions of the other constructions: Goodyear, Blake, Stitched-Out/Ideal, Moccasin, Sacchetto (Slip Lasting) Strobel, Opanka, Vulcanized and Direct Injection
The analysis of footwear materials includes but it is not limited to:
types of lasts and relationship with different styles, sizes and measures, the last as one of the tools in the manufacturing process
analysis of different materials used foruppers and linings (leather, fabrics, and synthetics)
overview of the leather tanning process, leather finishing
upper edge finishing as part of the pattern engineering and preparation process
hidden components: role and function of insoles, toe boxes and back stiffener
traditional outsoles (leather and rubber), heels, units, platforms
chemical sole-units: rubber, TPR, PVC, PU, TPU, EVA
The approach of learning the ARSUTORIA pattern making techniques begins with the easiest and more classic styles such as pump, ballerina, derby, oxford and loafer.
The foundations of technical design teach the main classic measures, traditional proportions and correct style lines for every type of basic men’s and women’s shoes designed on the flattened shell. Once the basis is established, the process learning path brings students to a deeper approach about more fashionable designs such as: more complicated pumps and challenging lace-up shoes together with simple and asymmetric sandals.
Ankle boots, boots, moccasins and asymmetric styles make part of this second stage which trains students to design on the plastic last too. To conclude the whole training, some lessons are focused on casual/running shoes and developments of very used pattern making techniques such as crimping vamps or tips about other types of pattern preparation aimed to manufacture shoes with different types of constructions other than Cemented.
Starting from week number 10 students put in practice what they have learned and they develop a prototype in the sample room
they start from their original design
they choose materials and components from those available at the School. Along the years our instructors have developed several shoe structures made of a coordinated set of lasts, insoles, soles and heels that students can use for their creations. Leathers, fabrics and synthetics are also available at the School
they develop the technical project of the patterns for upper and lining and they cut the pieces in the materials they have chosen
they work side by side with the professional stitching technician in the preparation of the uppers: skiving, splitting, reinforcing and then stitching
they assist and support the assembly process in the sample room: a professional operates the shoe making machines like toe and back lasting, bottom roughing, heel nailing and sole attaching
Every student work on his/her shoe sample but they also learn from looking at all the projects of the other students.
The final exam is an opportunity to recap all the subjects covered during the course and to assess the progress in skills and knowledge. It takes the entire week and it includes a fit testing session on students prototypes, a written test, a practical exercise and an interview
STUDENTS SHOE PROTOTYPES
In the final weeks of this class, students move to the ARS SHOE-Lab, our own sample room, to make shoe prototypes based on original designs made by the students. This "collective shoemaking" activity is a great way for students to understands the challenges and technical issues that can arise during shoe production in a factory. Here are some prototypes made by our students in the past years.